Our skin has a lot to contend with on a daily basis – UV rays, pollution, stress and even changes in the weather can affect the skin barrier. Add hormonal fluctuations and general ageing, and there's no denying that an action plan is needed. It's not all doom and gloom, though – there are ways to manage everything the perimenopause and menopause sends your way.

What the menopause does to your skin

'Hormonal fluctuations during perimenopause and menopause trigger a cascade of skin changes, says Dr Sohère Roked, GP and functional medicine and hormone doctor. 'Adult-onset acne is surprisingly common as hormone levels become erratic and many women develop sensitivities to skincare products they've used for years without issue.' This may be because when oestrogen drops, so does the natural production of hyaluronic acid, and this can make skin dry and more easily irritated. That compromised skin barrier then results in vital moisture escaping and bacteria entering, potentially aggravating existing conditions such as eczema or rosacea. 

Adult acne can also be a consequence of hormones. 'As oestrogen lowers, androgens – male hormones including testosterone, which can trigger spots – become more dominant,' says Dr Gaby Prinsloo, medical director at IIAA (International Institute for Active Ageing). 'Changes to the skin's pH and oil production are thought to contribute, too.'

That said, it's the loss of skin elasticity that's probably the most noticeable change. 'Declining oestrogen and progesterone levels directly compromise the skin's structural integrity and firmness,' says Dr Sohère. All of which leads to crepiness, fine lines, thinning skin and sagging.

Of course, the ways in which these side effects manifest is individual. And while it's inevitable that your oestrogen will drop, genetics, environment and ethnicity also play a part. 'Darker skin tones have more melanin, so tend to have less sun damage and therefore fewer wrinkles, less volume loss and fewer fine lines than lighter skins,' says Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, GP and award-winning cosmetic practitioner. 'On the flipside, they're more likely to get inflammatory skin conditions like melasma.

'Some studies also show that darker skins have a more tightly compact stratum corneum, which is one of the layers of skin that contributes to a strong skin barrier. However, while it might be more resilient, it could actually cause a slightly drier, flakier skin during menopause.' Darker skin tones also tend to produce more sebum, which can lead to oilier skin and a predisposition to adult acne.

Stress + skin

If your complexion is misbehaving and you also have other signs of menopause to negotiate, your stress levels will probably be raised – especially because as oestrogen and progesterone decline, you lose hormonal resilience, making you more vulnerable to stress and allowing cortisol (the stress hormone) to become dominant. 'Stress can exacerbate skin issues, as increasing cortisol levels can lead to inflammation, breakouts and further sensitivity,' says Dr Raj Arora, GP and skin specialist. But this is where using the correct products and ingredients can save the day…

Gently does it

If you've previously been a fan of active ingredients such as retinoids, AHAs and BHAs (like glycolic and salicylic acid) and forms of vitamin C such as L-ascorbic acid, it's time to transition to gentler formulas. 'Products that incorporate hyaluronic acid and glycerin to maintain moisture, gentle exfoliators like lactic acid or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) that won't irritate sensitive skin, and antioxidants like vitamin C (unless you're prone to irritation) and vitamin E that combat oxidative stress and support collagen production are all highly recommended,' says Dr Raj.